Choosing the ideal tree isn't all about being good-looking. The needles, the scent, and the branches are essential as well. So, before you go over to the tree farm to pick yours, learn about the different types of Christmas trees and which one is best for you.
Different Types of Christmas Tree: The Douglas Fir
This evergreen is a must in numerous Christmas tree lots, adored for its great pyramid-like shape and lasting needles. The gleaming, soft needles flourish on all sides of its limbs, making the tree look fuller. However, cut the branches, and the tree becomes compact and hard to decorate.
The Balsam Fir
This evergreen's two-colored needles are silver on one side, dark green on the other. Like several firs, these trees keep their needles for over a month. The balsam fir is your number one for Christmas trees if you're one of those folks who like to get your holiday tree ready right after Thanksgiving.
When you want to decorate, be mindful that balsam fir trees have bendable, soft branches. This tree isn't the best choice if you have weighty ornaments. You may use popcorn, tinsel, twinkling lights, and paper chains.
The Fraser Fir
The Fraser fir has a fantastic full pyramidal shape, with durable branches to hold heavy ornaments. There is also plenty of room between limbs to hang big bulbs.
The one-inch needles are green-blue and softer than other evergreens. You can anticipate them being around even after cutting the tree down, presuming the tree is receiving water regularly.
If you desire a long-lasting tree, this tree is for you. The Scotch pine will keep its great looks and needles even if the tree isn't getting any water. The needles are around two inches in length and various green hues.
Moreover, the limbs are durable and right for decorations of any size or weight. However, the needles are spikey. So, be careful when decorating.
To create a dense, full shape, tree experts shear this Christmas tree type. One thing to know is that the limbs might be right on top of each other. These branches are a challenge if you want to put hanging ornaments on your tree.
The Colorado Blue Spruce
If you're a real Christmas decorator and all into holiday color schemes, look no further than the Colorado Blue Spruce.
The white, blue, and silver tones of the branch deliver a beautiful color scheme. The tree has an excellent pyramid shape with sturdy branches that can hold heavy ornaments. Try not to smash the needles when putting on holiday decorations. When you crush the needles, the resin of the tree releases an unpleasant smell.
Since it's a living tree, you can plant it outside after Christmas. After cutting the tree, the Colorado Blue Spruce retains its needles excellently as long as you faithfully water the tree.
This year get the Christmas tree that will satisfy your needs. Call us at Harrisburg Tree Service to find out more about the different types of Christmas trees.
Tree roots can sprout deep underground and expand over a vast area, seeking nutrients and water. The depth of the roots is around eight feet. Though, some roots could go way deeper and extend much broader. Issues with the tree roots arise when they break the concrete around your home or force their way to the sewer pipes. It's at this point you need to learn how to kill tree roots.
There are environmental ways to manage tree roots that you might employ. Though, they usually take a while to do the job than your everyday chemical products. Remember that even if you cut down a tree, the roots could keep growing, causing destruction even after the trunk is gone.
You have a couple of options. You could get rid of underground problems with either eco-green or chemical treatments. Don't forget to be careful and always keep garden products away from pets and children. Once you kill the roots and pull them out of the ground, you could use some of them as landscape decoration.
How to Kill Tree Roots: Home Remedy
Root killers are available in an assortment of combinations. The products contain things such as copper sulfate, chemicals, and herbicides. These mixes aid in clearing drain pipes, sewer lines, and septic tanks.
If you want to go chemical-free, you could create a natural solution using salt, baking soda, boiling water, and vinegar. Combine the ingredients and quickly flush into the toilet on the lowest level of your property. This root killer will load the pipes, making the salt seep into the invasive roots. This procedure might take a few applications before the dead roots go away.
If bleaching a tree stump could destroy it, then using bleach to kill tree roots will work too. Bare the roots you want to go by slicing into them. You could also use a drill. Just drill holes into the roots you want to go.
Using a paintbrush, apply bleach to the roots where the cuts are or load the holes.
If the roots are still alive, repeat this procedure. It might take several applications and a reasonable amount of time. If you want to eliminate one annoying root, slice it from the primary root system. Next, put bleach on the unwanted root.
Using Epsom Salt
Though it takes more time than a herbicide, using Epsom salt to kill tree roots could successfully work by removing any water. Put three to four-inch-deep holes along the root. Plug the holes entirely with Epsom salt and water and don't overfill the gaps. The mixture is dangerous to surround foliage. Repeat this technique a few times for a couple of months.
Roundup concentrate is useful at exterminating your undesirable tree roots. It will also stop foliage from growing. Since Roundup contains glyphosate, you must take the necessary precautions while using this product.
Apply the solution over the exposed root using a paintbrush. Repeat as necessary.
Also, you could drill holes in the root and pour Roundup right into the root. It would be best if you saturated the root with Roundup. When done, be sure to clean your used tools with soap and hot water.
For other tips on how to kill tree roots, get in touch with us at Harrisburg Tree Service.
A low-cost, excellent way to grow your favorite tree is to plant it from a clipping or twig. The best part is that the task is easy and straightforward. Keep reading to learn how to grow a tree from a branch.
How to Grow a Tree from a Branch: The Twig or Clipping
If you prune your trees every couple of years to bring some order to your landscape, you could use the clippings to plant new trees.
If you're planting trees from twigs, the results will be trees matching the "parent" tree. This fact isn't always the case when you plant seeds. Because the planting includes two trees, you might be growing a crossbreed.
Though, if you're using a grafted tree, don't plant a tree branch as a way of reproduction.
A grafted tree is when the crown of one type has grown into the roots of another kind. Planting a tree branch of a grafted tree only reproduces the crown tree.
A few shrubs and trees, including plane trees, golden bells, and forsythia, proliferate from clippings. For some species, planting tree twigs offer a better opportunity for success than planting tree seeds.
How to Get Roots from Cuttings
Some folks like to put root tree clippings in water. Others prefer rooting them right in the soil. Either way, the best suggestion is to clip pieces of young limbs, preferably those under 12 months.
To begin using twigs for tree planting, cut off parts of the tree branch with a pruner or knife. Get rid of buds and leaves. Put the sliced end in hormone powder.
You can either put the end of the clipping in a pot filled with potting soil or a container with a few inches of water. If you want to begin rooting tree clippings in water, as the water evaporates, put more water in the container. If you're using soil, the soil must stay damp.
One way to keep the twig moist is to wrap a plastic bag around the container. Slice some slits in it to allow it to breathe. Using a string or a rubber band, close the mouth of the bag around the container. Look for developing roots.
Once you have achieved root tree cuttings in soil or water, you can move the new plant to a prepared garden bed or bigger container. The ground must stay moist during the early growing season. Damp soil helps the tree grow tough roots.
When you are doing tree twig planting, a reliable tip begins with more clippings than you believe you'll need. This way, you'll get a few healthy trees. While you can't plant walnut or oak trees in your outdoor space, you can plant smaller trees using clippings or twigs.
Attempting to get a tree from a clipping or twig could get complicated. If you need help choosing the right twig or clipping, call us at Harrisburg Tree Service to explore your options.
It might sound odd at first but getting rid of dead tree branches helps your tree in numerous ways. It's like getting a haircut. Yes, you lose some hair. But your hair's shape immediately looks good. By eliminating split ends, your hair won't shed, and the rest of your hair becomes strong and healthy.
It's the same when an arborist cares for your trees. You lessen the chance that they split while helping your trees flourish. Keep reading for more information on why you should prune your trees regularly.
Trimming Off Dead Tree Branches Helps Trees
Pruning is vital if you desire a long-living, healthy tree. Precisely, trimming off diseased or dead limbs aids in keeping you and your residence safe.
Pruning Provides Safety
Pruning eliminates deadwood that can otherwise blow around during a severe storm. Trimmed trees are less likely to have limbs split in a storm. While pruning, tree care professionals usually do a complete tree assessment to ensure your tree is healthy. When in good shape, a tree delivers beauty and saves you money.
When ill and ignored, that same tree can do massive damage to your home in a horrific storm. You may or may not know this, but a tree weighs nearly twice as much as a Toyota Corolla. Research has shown that a downed or damaged tree accounts for over $3 billion in property damage in the U.S. annually. The more time you spend on your tree's health, the less likely it will harm a storm.
Prune for Excellent Health
This task is crucial when your tree is young. Hire an arborist to guide your tree so that it grows a durable, sound limb structure. Spread out the canopy to allow air and light to permeate through the whole tree. This process increases foliage while reducing the risk of disease.
As your tree matures, your tree professional will typically trim your tree to get rid of weak branches. By eliminating excessive limbs, you enhance the shape of your tree. Also, you raise the amount of air and sunlight that could flow through your tree's canopy. Increasing the amount of sun means a surge in growth. Trimming aids the health of a tree.
Prune for Beauty
Arborists prune trees to help enhance or sustain their original shape. Some tree specialists feel that tree pruning is an art form. These professionals desire to assist each tree in looking as fabulous as it can.
When tree contractors maintain a tree, they help guarantee your tree continues to help your home! One vibrant tree in your front yard could raise the sale price by over an average of $6,000.
The right benefits don't stop there. When you trim fruit trees, you assist them in developing more significant fruit constantly. You have the potential of juicy fruit in your future.
At Harrisburg Tree Service, tree pruning is one of the many tree services we provide. If you need the dead limbs gone from your tree, contact us.
If you want to start harvesting fruit, you should learn how to plant blueberry bushes.
Why? Blueberries will grow and last for over 45 years. Paying close attention to the conditions and location ensures you yield tasty fruit for an exceptionally long time. Blueberries flourish only in soils that satisfy their needs. The soil also must drain well. If water remains in the spot you're planting for more than 48 hours, don't plant any blueberries.
Here are tips for growing blueberry plants:
How to Plant Blueberry Bushes: Location and Soil
Once you have chosen your location, make sure that the spot gets the full sun at least part of the day. Blueberries will endure partial shade, particularly late in the day.
Blueberries will flourish at a higher pH. Though, to get the most increased production, you must amend the soil near the plants. Do this task leisurely over time. Don't try and decrease the pH all at the same time.
Reduce your pH by:
Planting Blueberry Plants
Plant blueberries at precisely the same depth as grown at the nursery. Burrow the hole more significant than the size of the roots, back-filling with a mineral-rich compost mixture. If compost isn't available, use the best bark mulch you can find, add 10% peat moss. When planted, keep adding fresh compost as a topcoat to enrich your organic matter. Also, get rid of a ¼ of the branches. This work will encourage energetic branching.
In the first year, the plants are establishing themselves. You will not have to prune until the third year, after completing the fruiting phase. Perform pruning correctly when you open up the plant and eliminate the older limbs.
Since they have shallow-roots, blueberries necessitate more water than other fruit types, so the surface roots don't dry out. Blueberries react best to top-notch deep watering instead of keeping the surface damp. Water will rise to the surface.
Fertilize in the early part of the springtime as leaves are coming out of dormancy. A soil test is best for analyzing your fertilizer. A well-balanced fertilizer is a 10-5-5. After trimming, another fertilizer application will deliver the necessary nutrition required for the new growth to break from the shortened limbs.
Take pleasure in the beauty and taste of a blueberry plant. This foliage brings food and elegance to your yard. Not to mention, blueberry plants are quite manageable. Winter's vibrant branches, spring flowers, summer fruit, and fall leaves. A blueberry plant is a plant for any season.
If you need any tips or assistance in planting or maintaining a blueberry plant, call us at Harrisburg Tree Service.
Fences are well-liked in cities and suburbs. They offer distinct boundaries for your landscape, giving you privacy. They could also help keep pets and little ones, help cut down on gusting wind, and provide security. When you think of a fence as a natural design element, a living fence could be a real asset.
A Living Fence Could Be an Excellent Idea
While many property owners decide on new fencing options, plastic, chain-linked, or wooden, a living fence has plenty of potentials. These others don't offer. Using the correct type of hedge plant could offer firewood, food, or medicine. Perhaps they can also be leguminous plants, improving fertility in the neighboring soil and providing mulch substance for gardens.
Living fences also obstruct wind, helping in halting soil erosion and keeping the soil moist. These fences could last years at a low cost. Moreover, living fences enrich the beauty of your outdoor space.
Simply put, a living fence is an excellent idea. It creates resources: food, mulch, medicine, and much more.
The smaller number of trees we cut down to make fences, the better for oxygen production and carbon isolation. Maybe it's straightforward to understand, but a fence created instead of a fence that needs creating sounds way more reasonable.
The Basics of Make a Living Fence
Living fences are easy to make, though they do necessitate some patience. It's critical to remember the advantages are plentiful for those willing to wait.
Firstly, you must pick the right plant. Preferably, it's a plant that develops swiftly and grows excellently. The prospects are numerous. Hazel and mulberry work well in much of the nation, and inosculation is possible with pears or apples.
Some fruitful, fertility-building choices include honey locust, Siberian pea shrub, tagasaste, raspberries, blackberries, rugosa, and hawthorn roses. The truth is numerous things will work.
The necessary foundation for a living fence is to put your plants close enough together that they shut up any holes with leaves and branches. For some plants, this will take a couple of years. For others, getting the desired results will be quicker.
Instead of using slow-forming hedges, consider using nitrogen-fixing, fast-growing legumes to speed up the process by providing a fence and offering natural fertilization. As the desired shape of your living fences takes form, thin out the legumes.
Osage Orange Living Fence
One of the most well-liked plants used for living fences in America is the Osage orange. While the seeds are theoretically edible and loved by squirrels, it's not a plant mostly wanted for its potentials in the kitchen.
It's very tough, has painful thorns for safety purposes, and works great as a windbreak. Osage oranges, also called horse apples, are simple to grow from cuttings, seeds, or sprouts. Using this plant was common in many sections of the U.S. before creating barbed wire due to its reputation of being tight and durable. Within 12 years, the trees develop long-lasting, resilient wood that oddly makes for excellent fence posts.
Reach out to us at Harrisburg Tree Service for more information on living fences. Call and explore your options with our tree care experts.
Nothing is better than be a couple of different types of birch trees in your yard. With their ghostly coloration and incredible, papery bark, birch trees naturally are the center of attention in a landscape. Despite the trees’ downsides, birch trees are popular due to their small stature, unique peeling bark, white trunks, and marvelous shapes.
To help make a decision, below are five various types of birch trees to plant in your garden:
River Birch Trees
In a landscape, a river birch tree makes a statement, possessing intensely scaly brown bark. A type like “heritage” with its grayish colored bark will balance a vast range of colors. River birch trees are fast-growing, but somewhat short-lived, possessing a lifespan of around 50 years.
Paper Birch Trees
With papery bark that peels off trunks, paper birch trees are usually referred to as white birch trees. The tree has a slender, single trunk and increases visual impact when planted in groups to accentuate its whiteness.
A short-lived tree, these trees might live just decades in a warm climate. In cold weather zones, paper birch trees have lifespans close to 100 years.
Silver Birch Trees
Silver birch trees draw attention to itself with spade-shaped leaves and peeling, white bark. These slender-trunked trees will create a delicate shade canopy overhead. Growing up to 40 feet, these trees are best planted in northern and eastern exposures with limited hours of sunlight.
Gray Birch Trees
Gray birch trees usually have several trunks, offering a shape that is similar to a really big shrub as a tree. Gray birch is a gorgeous tree that is typically used as a winter landscape plant or when space limitations necessitates the use of a tree with a smaller stature.
Himalayan Birch Trees
Himalayan birch trees are great trees for big parks, open spaces, and home sites, parks. A problem solver for low-lying sites too wet for several other species. A quick-growing tree, Himalayan birch can fill in an empty area in a landscape.
Erman’s Birch Trees
Erman’s birch trees has white bark with a pink cast and a tendency to peel. This is what showcases this ornamental species in a garden. If your local arborist plants one in your yard, be prepared for this elegant tree to spread out. An Erman’s birch tree flourishes to height of close to 80 feet.
If you need help identifying the trees in your yard, contact Harrisburg Tree Service to schedule an appointment with one of out experienced arborists.
Beech bark disease is a huge threat to the American Beech and is widespread in the northeastern part of the United States. It is created by two invasive species: a fungus and the beech scale insect. In 1890, beech scale was first brought to Nova Scotia.
Later, it spread throughout much of the U.S. causing beech bark disease to extend in much of these areas. The disease happens when the bark of a tree is first attacked by the beech scale insect and is then eventually destroyed by the fungus.
Beech Bark Disease Stages
Beech bark infestation can take up to six years to progress after beech scale attacks the forest. The disease progresses in three stages: the aftermath zone, the advancing front, and the killing front. In the advancing front, the tree gets infested by the beech scale insect. In this stage, the beech scale destroys the tree's bark.
The stage afterwards is known as the killing front, which happens when a fungus contaminates trees within the damaged bark created by the scale insect. This usually happens some time while after the insects enter the woods. Lastly, the aftermath zone happens when trees die. Big trees may stay in the forest if they are resistant to the beech scale and the fungus.
There are many obvious indicators that the beech disease is in the forest. White blotches covering a tree's trunk might denote the infestation of the beech scale insect. After beech scale gets established, beech bark disease is almost unavoidable.
Later indicators of an infection include brown and red spots on the bark of a tree. During the aftermath zone, trees might be broken by harsh winds. This is referred to as beech snap. Call an arborist with Harrisburg Tree Service if you believe your tree is infested. You may need to consider tree removal from your landscaping.
Impacts on the Ecosystem
The ecosystems of forests are highly impacted by this disease. Horde of animals and birds depend on the American Beech species for habitat and food. Chipmunks, turkeys, black bears, grey squirrels, and deer are just a couple of examples of animals that feed on beech nuts. In addition, numerous species of raptors and hawks nest in beech trees.
The black cherry tree is a species with lovely flower clusters, each separate flower attached by little stalks.
All real cherries are deciduous trees, shedding their leaves before wintertime. Rum cherry, wild black cherry, or mountain black cherry trees are woody plant species belonging to the genus Prunus. These cherry trees are native to eastern North America. The bark of young trees is smooth but gets scaly and fissured since the tree's trunk expands with age. Get in touch with a tree contractor from Harrisburg Tree Service if you believe your tree might be diseased.
The Cherry's Beautiful Fruit and Flowers
All parts of the flower, including the stalks, stems, flowers, and bracts, is very appealing. The fruits are berry-like, turning black purple when ripe. The actual seed in the berry is a black, ovoid, single stone. The name black cherry comes from the black color of the ripe fruits.
Dark Side of a Black Cherry
The twigs, bark, seeds, and leaves of a black cherry makes a chemical referred to as cyanogenic glycoside. Hydrogen cyanide is discharged when the alive parts of the plant are consumed, toxic to both animal and human. It has a horrible taste. That taste is one of the distinguishing factors of the tree.
The inner bark has highly concentrated amounts of the chemical but was used ethnobotanically in much of the Appalachian states as a sedative, cough remedy, and tonic. The glycoside seems to diminish spasms in the lining of the bronchioles muscles. Still, huge quantities of black cherry deliver the risk of producing cyanide poisoning.
Dormant Identification of Black Cherry
The tree has lenticels that are light, narrow, and corky. Lenticels in black cherry are one of several upright elevated pores in the stalk of a woody plant that lets gas exchange between the atmosphere and the internal tissues on the bark of a young tree.
The cherry bark snaps into slim dark pieces and lift the edges on older wood. This is said to look like "burnt cornflakes.” You can safely nibble the twig that has the taste of bitter almonds. The cherry bark is dark-colored gray but is scaly and smooth with a brown-red colored inner bark.
Wintertime brings out the simplest version of our trees. They’re exposed, bare, and have to survive in dry, harsh air in cold bitter temps. A great way to help your trees to stay warm is by wrapping your trees for winter protection.
Regardless what type of trees you have, you have to protect them from winter’s most harsh elements. Call a Harrisburg Tree Service Contractor if you need professional help.
What You Must Know About Wrapping Trees for Winter
Young trees, or trees of any age with thin bark, gain from winter protection.
Whenever the sun comes out on a cold winter day, it heats the tree’s bark. Also, the tissue under the bark warms up. However, as soon as the sun fades behind a cloud or building, the bark temperature swiftly drops, which might damage the tissue, leaving the bark dry and cracked. This is referred to as sunscald. If you wrap your trees, you aid in shielding them from it.
The Best Tree Wrap for Winter
The best tree wrap for winter depends on what type of tree you have. If a tree has thin bark and loses its leaves in the autumn, the best way to safeguard it is by wrapping the trunk in a plastic tree guard.
This works for thin-barked trees such as poplar, maple, aspen, sycamore or linden. Use this technique for any freshly planted tree that leaves are gone. You need to wrap the tree from the bottom up to the lowest limbs to help shield it from sunscald.
How to Wrap Evergreen Trees with Burlap
There are two ways to protect your evergreen tree with burlap. It keeps the cold air out and stop animals from eating it.
Loosely wrap burlap completely around the tree, from the lowest limbs to slightly over the highest peak. Pin the burlap temporarily, cut from the spool and remove the pins. To secure, use twine to tie the bottom, middle, and top of the tree.
Another option is to get a few wooden stakes (about 3 of them) that are a little taller than the tree. Put one stake in front, one on the side of the tree that receives the most wind, and the last one on either side of the tree. Your goal is to form a triangle. Put a couple of pieces of burlap around the stakes, securing them with staples. When you are finished, you should have what looks like a safety barrier surrounding your tree.
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